The giant wheel
A view over the city from above the field.
Denise Hastert — CC BY-SA 4.0 · GilPe — CC BY-SA 3.0 · GilPe — CC BY-SA 3.0 · Flocci Nivis — CC BY 4.0
May to September for the weather, the green valleys and castles open on full hours. Late August and early September add the Schueberfouer. December adds Christmas markets on Place Guillaume II and the Place d'Armes, handsome despite the cold. Avoid January and February if you can: many castles outside the capital close or shorten their hours, and the valleys lose half their appeal without leaves.
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The Schueberfouer is Luxembourg's largest festival and its oldest continuous tradition: a market and funfair held every year on the Glacis field north of the old town for about three weeks between late August and early September. It was founded by John the Blind, Count of Luxembourg and King of Bohemia, in 1340 as an annual market for livestock and goods — which makes the festival older than most present-day European states. It shifted gradually over the centuries from a trading market to a popular funfair, but it never lapsed. Today it draws more than two million visitors: some two hundred rides and stalls, a giant wheel giving a view over the city, and traditional food stands, the best known selling fried fish and local pastries. If your visit coincides with it, this is the main event in the country that week; if it does not, the field is simply an open space with nothing to see.
A view over the city from above the field.
Fried fish and traditional local pastries.
Champ du Glacis, 1628 Luxembourg