Three states in one glance
You stand on Order of Malta ground, look across Italy, into the Vatican โ Rome's strangest geographical fact.
Gobbler โ CC BY-SA 3.0 ยท Falk2 โ CC BY-SA 4.0 ยท Giovanni Battista Piranesi โ Public domain ยท SilviaInternet88 โ CC BY 4.0
Alone, no; with the Orange Garden and Santa Sabina, absolutely โ the hill makes a quiet half-hour away from the crowds with three different views over Rome.
Press the lens flat against the keyhole and brace your hand on the door, focusing on the distant dome rather than the keyhole rim. Sunset gives the best colour but the hardest exposure.
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The most famous keyhole in the world: an ordinary green door on the Aventine Hill, behind which a clipped cypress avenue ends precisely at the dome of St Peter's, framed in a small circle. The effect is deliberate โ Piranesi designed the square and its gate in the eighteenth century and aimed the view on purpose. The lovely twist is that looking through it you see three states at once: you stand on ground belonging to the Order of Malta (a sovereign entity), look across Italy, into Vatican City. Practically: you will usually find a small, patient queue of visitors taking turns โ a minute each. Come early or before sunset to avoid waiting, and press your camera right against the keyhole for a photo (phones work but need a steady hand). And since you're on the Aventine: the neighbouring Orange Garden gives an open view over all Rome, and the fifth-century church of Santa Sabina, with its original wooden doors, is two minutes away. The whole set is free.
You stand on Order of Malta ground, look across Italy, into the Vatican โ Rome's strangest geographical fact.
Two minutes away: an open terrace over all Rome among orange trees โ one of the city's finest sunsets, and free.
A fifth-century church whose original wooden doors carry the oldest surviving depiction of the Crucifixion โ utterly quiet, and free.
Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta, Aventine Hill, Rome