The Giordano Bruno statue
Standing where he was burned in 1600, facing toward the Vatican โ the most politically charged statue in Rome.
Carlat82 โ CC BY-SA 4.0 ยท Jerzy Strzelecki โ CC BY-SA 3.0 ยท Bradley Weber โ CC BY 2.0 ยท รlvaro de la Paz Franco โ CC0
Morning for the market, photos and relative calm; evening for atmosphere and nightlife. For families: morning without hesitation โ evenings get very loud until late.
Buy fruit and vegetables to eat now (good and fresh), and skip the packaged "gifts" โ identical products cost a third as much in any supermarket.
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The only square in historic central Rome without a church โ and that is no accident. At its centre stands the hooded statue of Giordano Bruno, the philosopher burned here in 1600 for refusing to recant; the statue was raised in 1889 on the exact spot of his execution and remains a symbol of free thought in Italy. In the morning the square becomes the open market it has been for centuries: vegetables, fruit, spices, dried pasta, olive oil โ touristy now but still working, and its prices still negotiable. At dusk the scene inverts entirely: the stalls come down, bar tables spread out, and the square becomes central Rome's best-known nightlife spot. The real food is in the surrounding lanes, not the square: the forno on the northwest corner has sold pizza bianca by the slice for decades, and it is the best quick meal in Rome for under five euros.
Standing where he was burned in 1600, facing toward the Vatican โ the most politically charged statue in Rome.
Colour, smell and vendors' calls โ a sensory experience more than a shop, and best at nine in the morning.
White pizza bread with olive oil and salt, sold by weight on the square's corner โ the cheapest and best thing you'll eat in Rome.
Campo de' Fiori, Rome
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