A shrine attributed to Rumi's companion.
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The Shams Tabrizi Mosque and Tomb is a small, quiet building in central Konya, holding a tomb attributed to Shams of Tabriz, the dervish whose companionship changed the life of Jalal al-Din Rumi. Admirers of Rumi and of Elif Shafak's novel The Forty Rules of Love come here for a moment of calm away from the crowds at the nearby Mevlana Museum. Shams was born in Tabriz and lived from about 1185 to 1248. He met Rumi in Konya, became his close companion and then mysteriously vanished; Rumi's son Sultan Walad records the disappearance without details. Accounts of his end differ. One says he was killed, another that he left Konya and was buried at Khoy in Iran, which has its own tomb. So his true burial place remains disputed. The building has no founding inscription or endowment deed, so, according to the Turkish Encyclopedia of Islam, no one knows exactly who built it or when. Elements were added over time, including an attached minaret and a women's gallery. The interior is plain, drawing your attention to the tomb. For centuries Mevlevis made a habit of visiting it before going on to Rumi's lodge, and some visitors still do. Konya municipality has carried out restoration work here. The mosque is 700 m from the Mevlana Museum and 500 m from Alaaddin Hill in a straight line, so it fits easily into a walk. Keep shoulders and knees covered, women cover their hair, remove your shoes, and avoid prayer times and Friday midday. It is busiest during the Şeb-i Arus week, 7 to 17 December.
A shrine attributed to Rumi's companion.
A break from the Mevlana Museum crowds.
A visit before Rumi's lodge.
Karatay, west of the Mevlana Museum, Konya
Karatay MadrasaLook up the moment you step into the main hall, because the dome is the whole po5 minutes walk4.5
Alaaddin HillKonya's tram loops around a hill, and the hill is not really a hill at all: it i6 minutes walk4.3
Aziziye MosqueTwo minarets that end in open balconies carried on slender columns, more palace 6 minutes walk4.8
Mevlana MuseumTürkiye's most visited museum in 2019 was not in Istanbul. It was here in Konya:9 minutes walk4.8
Konya Archaeological MuseumIn the summer of 1958 a farmer ploughing his field at Yunuslar, out on the Beyşe9 minutes walk4.4No one knows for sure. He disappeared mysteriously and there is another tomb at Khoy in Iran, but this spot has drawn visitors for centuries.
Elif Shafak's novel retells the story of Shams and Rumi, and it has drawn more visitors here. It is fiction, though, not a historical source.