Budapest in 3 Days

Three days arranged so you never cross the Danube back and forth without reason: Pest on day one, all of Buda on day two — downhill from the top of Castle Hill to the bridge — and Andrássy Avenue with City Park on day three, ending in a thermal bath rather than a fourth museum. Every stop opens its full page with prices, times and directions. Two rules that make Budapest work: book the Parliament tour weeks ahead, and give a bath half a day rather than an hour.

1Day 1

1Hungarian Parliament BuildingBook your tour online weeks ahead — slots sell out, and there is no Arabic tour, so take English. Start on the earliest morning slot.

2Kossuth SquareThe square is right outside: take the façade shot from its far northern end, where the whole building fits in one frame.

3Shoes on the Danube BankTen minutes south along the bank. A silent memorial with no signage — give it real minutes rather than passing through for a photograph.

4St. Stephen's BasilicaFive minutes inland. Pay the extra fee and go up to the dome — a 360-degree view over all of Pest and the clearest lesson in how the city is laid out.

5Dohány Street SynagogueEurope's largest synagogue. Closed Saturdays and Jewish holidays, so check your day. The ticket covers the courtyard and museum — allow ninety minutes.

6Great Market HallA tram ride or twenty minutes' walk south. Ground floor for spices and groceries, upper floor for food — but note it closes early, and all day Sunday.

7Vörösmarty térWalk back north up Váci street to the square. A good place to sit at dusk, and the start of the evening promenade walk.

8Széchenyi Chain BridgeEnd the day crossing it after dark: the castle lit ahead of you, the Parliament glowing behind on your right. The best half hour of the day.

2Day 2

1Budapest Castle Hill FunicularTake the funicular up from Clark Ádám tér before nine — after that the queue lengthens. Buy one way only: you will walk back down.

2Buda CastleThe courtyards and terraces are free, with the Pest view straight from them. Go into one gallery, not two — time is worth more here.

3Hungarian National GalleryInside the castle itself — Hungarian art from the medieval period to the 20th century. Two hours is enough, and its dome adds another view.

4Matthias ChurchWalk ten minutes north through the castle district. Its coloured tiled roof and patterned interior look like no other European church.

5Fisherman's BastionRight beside the church. The lower terraces are free and the view from them is nearly identical to the paid one — pay only if you want the upper towers empty.

6Hospital in the Rock Nuclear Bunker MuseumGuided tours only, at fixed times — book ahead. It is cold inside all year, so take an extra layer.

7Zero Kilometre StoneWalk down off the hill to Clark Ádám tér. Five minutes and a photograph — the point every Hungarian distance is measured from.

8Gellért HillTake a bus or tram south and climb it an hour before sunset. The best complete view of the whole city, both banks and all the bridges.

9Liberty StatueAt the top of the same hill. End your day here as the city lights come on below — then take the bus down rather than walking in the dark.

3Day 3

1Hungarian State Opera HouseStart at the bottom of Andrássy Avenue. Its guided tour is short (about an hour) and booked online — or settle for the façade if time is tight.

2House of Terror MuseumTen minutes up the avenue. An emotionally heavy museum on the Nazi and communist regimes — not for young children. Take the audio guide.

3Andrássy útContinue on foot, or ride the yellow M1 — the oldest line in continental Europe, whose stations are themselves worth seeing.

4Heroes' SquareThe end of the avenue. An open square with no shade — do not come at midday in summer. Free and always open.

5Museum of Fine Arts, BudapestRight on the edge of the square: Hungary's most important collection of European art. Two hours, or skip it if you want longer at the bath.

6Vajdahunyad CastleInside the park behind the square. The courtyard is free, and the building is a deliberate mix of Hungarian styles — a short walk rather than a museum visit.

7Széchenyi thermal bathEnd your trip here and give it three hours at least. Book online, and bring a swimsuit, towel, sandals and a small padlock for the locker.